Friday 7 June 2013

Visiting Mykonos


Mykonos - the town

After a winter that seemed to last forever, we needed a break.  With the weather continuing to be unpredictable, the Greek islands seemed a good option, so we booked a week in Mykonos.  The last time we were in Greece was in a French holiday camp in Crete, so things could only look up.  A well-heeled friend of Paul's recommended a swanky hotel, so we threw caution to the winds and booked.

The pool at the Myconian Ambassador
The hotel turned out to be paradise itself.  If you want an idyllic place to stay, with a stunning view of the sea, untroubled by the party party mentality that afflicts large sections of the public as soon as they get off a plane, then book yourself into the Myconian Ambassador hotel.  The food surpassed anything I've experienced in Greece, although we rationed ourselves a little in order to preserve the wallet.  The staff were charming, the environment impeccable.  The other guests came from all over the world, including the States and Japan.
Back street in Mykonos town
Little on the surface of this elegant island indicates that Greece is in economic difficulties.  The main town is a labyrinth of narrow streets, giving the effect of a Middle Eastern souk.  Its shops include some very fancy jewellers.  We were told that these cater for a cruise-ship clientèle.  Who are these people, who leave their ship for a few hours to visit a small island and spend upwards of ten thousand pounds on some diamonds?  Chanel and Louis Vuitton were also present.  More Saint-Tropez than Captain Corelli.
Apart from our hotel, the culinary experience left a certain amount to be desired.  Greek cuisine has advanced since my visits back in the 70s, when the ubiquitous Greek salad made its appearance twice daily on the table, but locals still hanker after the traditional experience of the simple restaurant on the beach.  We sampled one such, where Paul's main course was a large wad of moussaka and I was confronted by half a leg of lamb.  The pallidly greasy chips that came with both were a long way from the current insistence on double and triple frying.

In July and August I imagine that the combination of heat and crowds make the Mykonos experience pretty hellish.  But at the beginning of June it was a perfect break, and we felt a bit of a pang on leaving.  The only remedy is to book another break!

Antony Mair


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